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POINT BLANK is right next to you, close enough to use a knife.

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| Remember that range affects your accuracy a lot |
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At point blank, you will always hit your target as long as he is in front
of you, so accuracy and recoil is not a problem. Shotguns are lethal at
this range.

At close range, only the sniper rifles will have any real trouble
hitting the mark under conditions of low accuracy (moving or being
on a ladder). This is the maximum effective range of shotguns.

Medium range is basically the maximum range for pistols and sub
machine guns to fire accurately and still have a good chance of
being on target. Shotguns will still do minimal damage due to the
spreading of ammo.

Long range is the domain of rifles and machine guns only. While it
is still possible to hit using pistols and SMGs, it is far less
likely.


It is important to note that auto-fire works well from point-blank
to close range, but from medium to long range single-fire will more
likely net you a kill. Also, using single-fire in close range is
best left only to the highly-skilled, because otherwise the faster
trigger finger of auto-fire will likely cut you to ribbons first.

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3.e -- Damage: Armor and Location

The final important basic consideration is with the amount of
damage you deal out. The damage you do to an opponent depends
largely on which gun you are using, but regardless you can do
more or less damage depending on two factors: armor and location.

Shooting an opponent wearing armor will reduce damage done, while
hitting him in specific areas can cause more damage.
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3.e1 - Location

Now, where you hit your opponent is also important. There are
four basic damage regions in the Counter Strike body, in order
of damage:

Head (greatest damage)
Body
Arms
Legs (least damage)

HEAD AREA - this is the smallest, hardest to hit area, but also
takes the most damage. Most guns kill an unarmored, healthy head
in one blow.

BODY AREA - this refers to the entire torso, from the neck to the
groin. It is the easiest to hit, and damage is moderate.

ARMS AREA - this refers to both arms, from the shoulder to the hand.
Damage is slight.

LEGS AREA - any part below the groin, up to the tip of the toe.
Damage is almost non-existent here, and you do not slow the enemy
in anyway (unlike in Action Quake). Avoid aiming for this part.

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3.e2 - Armor

Armor helps absorb damage. Depending on the integrity of your
armor, the damage absorption will decrease. From experience,
some ammo types penetrate armor better than others.

I am not entirely sure how each ammo type does against armor,
but in general the rifle ammos (5.56 and 7.62) penetrate armor
far better than the pistol and SMG ammo (9mm, .45, etc.).

Apparently, the 9mm and the 12 ga. buckshot have the worst
penetration among all ammo types. The .50 Action Express
(used in the Desert Eagle) is very good against armor.

Typically, the rifle rounds will do almost the same damage
whether the enemy is wearing armor or not. However, for the
pistol rounds, damage is greatly reduced.

Armor comes in two varieties: a vest which protects the body
area only, and a helmet which protects both body and head.
However, when you shoot at the neck area of an opponent, you
are more likely to hit his head. Headshots are most feared;
always buy full armor if you can afford it! It's the only
real defense aside from cowering behind a rock.

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| Never skimp on armor. Buy the vest and helmet. |
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Many novice and even some intermediate players don't buy
armor, thinking it's a waste of money. They often complain
that they die almost instantly anyway with or without it.
Believe me, armor makes a HUGE difference, especially
since odds are several enemy agents will be using MP5s.
When your dodging skills have increased and you are fighting
on more or less equal terms, you will notice how much armor
keeps your health up. And when fighting very accurate shooters
who aim for you head, that helmet is pure gold in determining
who will win the battle.

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3.f -- Stopping Power

Another important consideration which I forgot to mention earlier
(thanks Paul for reminding me) is stopping power. Have you ever
noticed how, during a gunfight you thought you had your enemy
dead in your sights, but suddenly you get hit and your gun shoots
up, ruining your aim? Or how, while trying to run for cover, you
are suddenly hit and you stop dead in your tracks, unable to dodge,
and thus a sitting duck?

These effects are attributed to something called Stopping Power.
It is a very important tactical tool which makes killing an opponent
without taking casualties easier. In this case, who gets the first draw,
has a better chance of winning.

All guns have some level of stopping power. Some, though, have
better stopping power than others. The stronger the stopping power,
the longer the opponent takes to recover, and the more off his aim
will be. It's hard to pinpoint the exact levels of stopping power
are for each gun. The stopping power seems to depend on the ammo
type. Unfortunatley, it is very difficult to measure the stopping
power of each gun, so I will refrain from giving estimates.

Just remember this:

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| Stopping power can disrupt the aim and movement of an enemy |
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Because of this, it cannot be understated that hitting the opponent
first can win you the duel entirely, for his shots will likely be
thrown off target. He will also be momentarily stunned, making him
an easier target.

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IV. THE WEAPONS
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Now that you have a basic concept of recoil and accuracy, you are ready
to learn about the weapons. There are six basic kinds of weapons in CS:
pistols, shotguns, submachine guns, assault rifles, sniper rifles, and
machine guns. Each have different ratings for recoil, accuracy,
encumbrance, as well as different ammo types.

As a player, you can have two guns with you at most: one primary weapon,
and one secondary weapon. Only pistols are allowed for secondary weapons,
everything else is a primary.

Each gun is detailed as follows:

NAME: The name of the gun (alternative v1.0 name) [Quick Buy Number]
COST: How much the gun plus a full clip costs
AMMO: The kind of ammo the gun uses
CLIP/MAX: The size of the clip/maximum ammo you can carry

CLIP COST: How much one clip costs (number of bullets per clip)
ACCURACY: High, medium or low, high means very accurate
MOVE ACC: High, medium or low, how accurate the gun is while moving.
RECOIL: High, medium, or low, high means strong recoil
RATE OF FIRE: Fast, medium, or slow. The speed between shots.
AUTOFIRE: Yes or no, whether the gun can engage autofire or not
SPECIAL OPTION: What happens when you press the special weapon function.
NOTES: Other things you about the weapon, and my tips and advice.

SPECIAL OPTIONS:

1.) Sniper Scope

Sniper scopes let you zoom in on a far away target. There are two
zoom sizes: 2x or 4x. I just call them that; I don't know if they
really make your vision twice or four times as close. It's something
I carried over from my Action Quake days.

Activating the scope increases accuracy, and greatly decreases
any inaccuracy from moving and sidestepping. However, it also tends
to decrease rate of fire. Further, using the scope warps your
perception, making movement and aiming slightly tricky. And of course,
it limits your vision (taking away your peripheral vision, so to speak).

Also, as of CS v1.1, all the sniper rifles (Scout to Sig 550) have
become completely inaccurate without the scope. However, with the
scope on they become quite accurate.


2.) Silencer

Silencers remove muzzle flash and suppress the noise from firing.
This makes them good for sneaking ambushing in dark conditions. There
are some effects on the shot, though. I am not 100% sure, but it has
to do with reducing bullet velocity.

Realistically speaking, a silencer is supposed to reduce the velocity
of your bullet to subsonic levels. Through extensive testing and
experience, apparently the reduced bullet velocity makes your shot
less accurate at range. It also decreases bullet damage. However,
recoil is somewhat reduced. What this means is that, in general, a
suppressed weapon is better in close combat, while the unsuppressed
version is better for sniping at range.

Quick tip: to quicly attach/remove the silencer, press your secondary
fire button and do a quick weapons switch. When you switch back to
the gun, the silencer will be on or off. This is much faster than
going through the entire attach/detach animation.

Take note that in v1.0 of CS Sierra, apparently due to copyright reasons,
decided to rename the guns with some weird, unknown, bogus names. I include
them here for those of you who only joined from v1.0 up, to clear any
confusion as to nomenclature. You can manually edit the TITLES.TXT file
in your CS directory which corresponds to the weapon names, allowing you
to change them back to what they're supposed to be.

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4.a -- Pistols

These are your choices available for your secondary weapon. It is crucial for
your survival when you run out of ammo and do not have time to reload. Pistols
have often have poor accuracy at range but are very accurate while moving.
When using a pistol, in close range, be sure to side step a lot. Pistols also
reload very quickly and are very light, allowing you to move very fast. The
main disadvantage of the pistol is that, except for the Glock, they all have
single-fire triggers. This means that you have to press furiously to
achieve an auto-fire effect.

When choosing your secondary, be sure to select a weapon that complements
your primary. Determine this by weapon fighting-style. Primaries that
mostly use auto-fire shooting should have a pistol with a large clip
size and fast rate of fire (like the Glock or Five-SeveN). Those that rely
on single-fire shooting should get strong ammo pistols that follow suit
(like the USP or Desert Eagle).

NAME: H&K USP .45 Tactical (K&M .45) [1-1]
COST: $500
AMMO: .45 ACP
CLIP/MAX: 12/48
CLIP COST: $25 (12)
ACCURACY: Medium
MOVE ACC: High
RECOIL: Low
RATE OF FIRE: Fast
AUTOFIRE: No
SPECIAL OPTION: Silencer
NOTES: This is the standard issue CT gun. Counter Terrorists have the weapon