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- are you going to camp, or move around? If you're camping,
you should find a place where your back is protected
and you can easily cover a chokepoint (harder than it sounds)
- DEagle seems to be the popular choice for sidearm; buy it if
you can afford it. It's a good pistol to compliment the AWP.
- utilise the "quick rechambering" technique; quickly switch
to your DEagle and then back to the AWP after firing a round
- use cover to your advantage. Spring out of cover and fire a
round, and then run back for cover (what Mochan calls "the
Style of the Ages") make yourself disappear all the time;
frustrate the enemy

There is also an advanced technique called "Catching the Movement";
basically, you predict the immediate trajectory of your moving opp-
onent and compensate by slightly moving the cursor where he is
going and then shoot. This all happens in perhaps half a second. If
you've ever spectated a good AWPer in first person mode, you'll know.

Poor AWPers, if I can call them that, don't Catch the Movement.
Instead, their reflexes are too slow, and they always fire where the
enemy was 300 milliseconds ago. In that way, they don't compensate
for the enemy's movement!

Truly Catching the Movement of your target will seem virtually instant-
aneous. It seems as if your crosshairs suddenly moved into your enemy's
path.

(This technique can be seen all the time in Quake III Arena, with the
railgun and other weapons.)

A good example is when you know an enemy is going to round a corner
soon. You are waiting to AWP him, with your crosshairs about a head's
width from the edge of the corner (the vertex). Your enemy rounds the
corner. By the time you have registered this, he has already "passed"
your crosshairs. So you "catch the movement", and in a split-second
your crosshairs are where he is. You fire - he dies.

With this corner example, it's also possible to "reverse" the
technique.

Normal "Catch"
--------------

|
__ |
x |__| | wall
-|- |
/ \ |
----------------------------------------------
ground

With a "reverse catch", you place the crosshairs further away from the
wall, and move it towards the RIGHT when the enemy appears. Personally,
I find the reverse much easier to do than the normal "catch the movement".

Keep practicing your AWPing and you'll gradually master this tricky
technique.

There's also the situation where your opponent has somehow got very
close to you and is madly strafing/jumping around.

In most cases, there are only 3 options (really only 2) available to
you:

- keep your AWP scoped at 2x and try and kill him before he
gets closer
- if he's really close, try unscoping the AWP and go for a
"sledgehammer" shot
- pull out your secondary

I'd say the easiest, quickest and safest method is the last one -
plus it has the added benefit of the enemy being caught unawares.
He thinks he's safe strafing around because he assumes it's hard
to AWP at close range, but instead you're pumping DEagle rounds
into his head!

>

Weapon Efficiency
--------------

Bullets per Kill : ~ 2
Avg. Damage/bullet : ~ 50+ HP
Time per Kill : ~ 1.5 seconds

Efficiency : ~ 87%

Costs $2750; cheaper than an AWP or an M4A1.

Many people like to use the Scout as a alternative to the cliche of
the AWP. It provides several benefits:

- no ridiculous loud boom each time a round is fired
- VERY fast reloading time
- aiming practice, since a shot to the waist isn't fatal
- $2000 cheaper
- inspires respect, not fear

I have to emphasise the last point - some AWPers have a funny ability
to attract cursing and bitching from their victims.

Unfortunately the truth of the matter is the Scout is inferior to the
AWP in terms of ease of use, damage per shot, etc.

The pressure to kill in one shot and emulate the AWP can motivate you
to aim better ... so if you're sick of the AWP, use the Scout!

=========================================================================

*** 3.7 - Grenades ***

Flashbangs are harder to use than grenades because placement is crucial
for them to be effective. Try to aim a flashbang to land directly in
front of your enemy, opposite the direction he is facing - if you
haven't even seen him yet, you'll have to assume he's facing you, for
instance.

Some players like to throw flashbangs into a chokepoint and then
camp the chokepoint; this is just a waste of flashbangs because they
don't press the attack. They are also giving away their presence,
making the enemy more cautious and alert. Always charge after throwing
a flashbang, even if you're not sure it blinded the enemy. It's worse
to give away your position and let them know of your presence.

HE Grenades can be used in huge combos for massive damage. The choice
is whether or not to use your grenade at the start of the round whilst
rushing, or to save it for those situations where it could literally
win the round.

Personally, I wouldn't use my HE that I bought unless everyone else
in the vicinity also threw theirs at the same spot, at the same time.
It would be more efficient if you were SURE an enemy was there and it
was near the end of the round.

Smoke grenades aren't really worth the money unless you've got good
"teamplay skillz". The fact is, most smoke grenades aren't thrown
properly and end up blocking everyone's view.

If you want a bit of a hax0r option to see through smoke, then
use the 'fastsprites 2' console option (or set it in the Confi-
guration menu). It will make smoke look very poor, and you'll be
able to see through gaps where the smoke sprites overlap.

Always buy HE Grenades and Flashbangs if you can afford them.

*** 3.7a - HeatoN's Smoke Trick ***

The "smoke trick" that is attributed to the famous Swedish player
HeatoN, involves buying a flashbang(s) and a smoke grenade.

The trick involves only two steps

1) Throw a flashbang to blind the opponent(s)
2) Throw the smoke grenade in the same fashion and jump out with guns
blazing

The opponents will think that the smoke grenade is the second flashbang,
and will try to avoid the flash by turning around, giving you the
opportunity to nail them in the backs in that short timeframe.

=========================================================================

Section 4: Aiming & Headshots

After learning the basics of any first person shooter, aiming is then
the most important thing to master. Whomever has the better aiming
will win in most face-off situations.

=========================================================================

*** 4.1 - Aiming & Sensitivity ***

Some players like to press and hold the trigger even when the enemy
isn't inside their crosshairs. This is definitely and obviously bad,
but it happens sometimes when you're not very calm - you're a bit
edgy or you got surprised pretty badly ... :O .... so always make
sure the enemy is nicely lined up in your crosshairs before you shoot.

The mouse is also an important factor in aiming. You should make sure
that your mouse isn't too dirty inside, otherwise it'll skip and cause
severe fluidity problems (I'm referring to ball mice, of course)
I recommend using a mousepad for FPS's, but some players prefer a
smooth, hard platform, such as a table's surface.

Adjust the sensitivity in the Configuration/Controls/Advanced menu (or
use the console command 'sensitivity'). Also, make sure "Mouse Filter"
is turned on, as it helps aiming fluidity. Remember that the CS Mouse
sensitivity number is actually based on the Windows Desktop sensiti-
vity, so other players' sensitivity values might not work for you.
Generally, if you can turn 180 degrees in one fluid movement, then
that sensitivity should be right.

Don't worry if you aspire to aim very quickly. Accuracy in aiming is
far more mportant than the time you take. The human hand-eye co-
ordination works in such a way that when you first see your target,
you will aim in two steps. The first step is a fast, fluid motion
towards the VICINITY of the target, and the second is a much slower
but more precise movement to the exact x,y co-ordinates.

Some skilled players tend not to crouch when firing upon enemies. I
think it's because they're training their reaction time and reflexes;
obviously it takes more time to crouch and then aim than it does to
just stop and "stand-aim". So if you prefer this style of shooting,
you should use 'cl_dynamiccrosshair 0' in the console (also config-
urable in the Controls/Advanced Menu). With Dynamic Crosshair
disabled, your crosshair will only increase in size when actually
firing.

*** 4.1a - Sensitivity Quick-switch ***

Some players prefer low mouse sensitivities for sniping - this can lead to
trouble if they are caught by surprise and need to spin about to face
the enemy.

alias +s "sensitivity x"
alias -s "sensitivity y"
bind mouse3 +s

( x = higher sensitivity, y = sniping sensitivity)

With this setup, the player can use the third mouse button, (or if they
don't have one, substitute a key for it), and whilst held down their
sensitivity is increased. Once the button is released, they return
to their previous sensitivity.

=========================================================================

*** 4.2 - Headshots ***

What is the best way to kill an opponent?

Most players know that if you shoot at the head of your opponent you
may or may not get a headshot - the uncertainty is due to factors such
as the gun, presence of armour, the attacker's aiming accuracy,
distance from target etc.

But what is the best way to AIM to get a headshot?

I have seen truly prodigious "headshotting" abilities; players who
have consistently killed me in mere fractions of a second with AKs
on an AWP map. Players whose crosshairs shoot virtually instantly
to an opponent's neck.

Unfortunately, the chances are you're not one of these people.

So you must practice your aiming!

Some players like to burst 2-4 shots slightly ABOVE their opponent's
head; others aim at the neck or even the chest, and hold a bit longer
in the hope of a "recoil headshot". And of course, there are those