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later when you have space though, it won't disappear.

As you get creatures into your dungeon, they will need paying.  The payday timer is located at the top of the screen and the gold moving round its rim is the countdown to the next payment date.  The amount that you will lose will flash briefly in blue, make sure it doesn't take you into the red, or your creatures will get angry.  It also costs money to train creatures in the
Training Room, but you really can't get around that.

Casino's can be used to recycle your gold through, if you "rig" the casino, you will make money back off your creatures, but they won't be as happy.  If a creature wins the casino Jackpot but is unable to collect, they will also get mad.  If money is running low, collect up all your Imps and drop them in a treasury, they may have gold they haven't deposited yet.  As an emergency measure you can sacrifice Mana to make gold with the handy "Create Gold" spell, or sell off rooms using the $ option in the bottom left of the screen near the aerial map.

If you become bankrupted, your creatures will leave your dungeon rather quickly; so effective cash management is vital, not every level has an infinite
Gem seam to mine in it.

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c) USING THE HAND OF EVIL
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The hand of evil is YOUR hand Keeper.  This is you way of keeping control of your dungeon and its minions.  As well as acting like a normal mouse pointer, it has several modes and actions that can be discerned visually:

- If the hand is not engaged in anything, it will be open and will restlessly move its fingers.
- If you pass it over something and left click it will pick that creature or gold up.  If it has a creature you will see it dangling from your finger.  You can pick up more than one at a time.  If it holds gold, it will cup itself.
Left click to drop the gold/creature again.
- If you pass the hand over a creature you can right click to slap them.
- If a pickaxe appears in the hand this is an area you can tag blue for your imps to excavate.
- If you have selected something from the control panel, like a spell, or room, or trap etc the finger will point.  Drag and/or drop then left click to activate or right click to deselect. The action icon appears by the hand, if there is a red line through it, the action cannot be performed in that place.

With the hand you interact with your creatures in two ways.  Picking them up is useful for quickly moving them to Lairs, Hatcheries and Treasuries if they are moaning about lack or sleep/food/cash.  You can also drop them into an area to do work, e.g. Research in the Library or Training in the Training Room (there is no guarantee they will always do it then though!).

You can also drop creatures near to enemies, but be warned, there is a "stun" effect when they land and they make take damage if dropped too close to a foe.
You can also use the hand to pick up imprisoned enemies and drop them in the torture devices or in the combat pit.

Slapping is the other way to interact with them.  This is best reserved for your imps, as your other denizens may get angry from your abuse and leave.
Imps however will squeak and work harder with the odd slap.  The exception is the Dark Mistress; she positively loves a damn good "right clicking". Be careful as well with your imps, too much sadistic slapping may kill them.  Take it out on a chicken instead; they explode in a bloody mess of feathers when slapped (mwahahaha).

Creatures normally work at 80% efficiency.  Slapping (once) will add 10% to that as will dropping the creature where you wish it to be working.

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d) FIRST PERSON MODE
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Once your Warlocks have researched the Possession Spell you can cast this upon a creature to see through their eyes.  Using the mouse to look around and the cursor keys to move about you can stroll through your dungeon and admire your handiwork close up.

It also has a more important function, possessing certain creatures can be tactically useful, some have special abilities you can use while in control of them.  Dark Elves have the ability to snipe enemies from long distances; you can use this to quickly take out enemies from far away.  A Rogue can cloak himself and you can use him to infiltrate enemy dungeons, he can then pick the locks of enemy prisons and release any captured creatures inside.  You can also use the Rogue to scout out land unseen and you can use the Troll to spot and disarm those invisible enemy traps. Possessing a Vampire gives you access to a wider range of spells to cast, even possessing a Dark Mistress while you interrogate a prisoner will make them capitulate faster.

While in Possession Mode you can also group together a gang of creatures and lead them into battle.  This is useful if you have only low-level creatures at your disposal.  Under your direct command they become much braver and will not flee battle.  Battle can become chaotic though, and takes some getting used to.
It is recommended that you spend time practising with Possession Mode in My
Pet Dungeon; this will make life much easier for you when it comes time to use it in your evil Campaign!

Possessing is a great way of getting the most out of your dungeon. If you are in a quiet period, it's nice to wander around watching your creatures having fun in the Casino or cheering on a fight in the combat pit.  They may be disgusting hell-spawn, but Keeper, they are YOUR disgusting hell-spawn.  Be proud of them!

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e) COMBAT
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Combat can be a pretty chaotic affair. As you have no direct control over your forces (unless you have someone under possession) you need to put some planning into how you approach your fights.  Each creature has a different fighting type and functions better or worse in certain situations.  You also cannot expect creatures to fight against overwhelming odds; most of them (except for the Dark
Mistress and skeleton) will flee if they are outnumbered.  The four types are:

- BLITZER.  These are your shock troops, these are the ones who charge the enemy and fight quickly and viciously.  Dark Angels and Dark Mistresses fall into this category as do the mindless skeletons and the tough Vampires.
- BLOCKER.  These are creatures that provide the next line of attack if enemies get through the Blitzers and also provide a wall of defence.  These include the slow but strong Bile Demons and Trolls, and the powerful Dark Knights.
- FLANKERS.  These are weaker creatures that function better in groups. They will attack from the sides supporting the Blitzers, and overwhelming the enemy through their numbers.  Goblins and Salamanders fall into this category.
- SUPPORT. These are the physically weak creatures that should be kept out of close combat. They specialise in distance attacks, Warlocks with their spells and Dark Elves with their arrows make the best support.

The Rogue and the Firefly are categorised as Flankers but really should be kept out of combat.  Their specialities lie elsewhere.

So when planning combat first make sure your creatures have trained and levelled up as much as you can afford or have time to do. Try and send as many in as you can, force of numbers gives your creatures more confidence and more fearful creatures such as Goblins will be less likely to flee when the Lord of the Land appears. Use common sense and don't drop a load of Warlocks on the front line and then be surprised when they are hacked to pieces.

Pay attention to training, when you can access a combat pit, do use it, as many creatures effectiveness rises dramatically with the jump to level 5.  For example the Dark Mistress will acquire more spells making her even more awesome!

Use your spells to support your creatures, Lightning Bolt is weak but can drop armoured foes to the ground allowing your weaker Flankers to pile in and attack them.  Healing also helps tip the scales in your favour, but don't get to click happy, it can drain your mana reserves quickly.  You can see how injured a creature is by the petals left on their mood/health flower, if they get knocked down to two petals, heal them NOW!  Once they are at one petal they will be incapacitated and if an Imp doesn't take them away to rest up, they will die.

So then most importantly make sure you drop Imps into the combat field regularly, they will rush in and drag any injured foes into the Prison, and also will take away the fallen bodies of your creatures, if they get them back to their lair quickly enough, it will recover to fight another day.

Creatures level up to four maximum in the Training room, then they can go up to level eight in the Combat Pit.  They can only attain level nine and ten via level up items and combat with enemies.  To check up on their progress zoom in so you can see a "clock-hand" moving round their health flower.  This shows you how much further they have to go until they attain the next level.  Once a creature is level eight it will not fight anymore in the Combat Pit nor will others attack it.

Spells like Call to Arms allow you to quickly muster your forces in one place, and if you have fortified your dungeon with traps these can provide extra support.  Once again Keeper, it is recommended to experiment in My Pet Dungeon
Mode, here you can trigger Hero invasions whenever you wish and plan tactics around a variety of terrain and situations.  With practice and some thought you can build a truly terrifying combat force out of even the lowliest collection of Goblins, Skeletons and Warlocks, the Lord of the land will stand no chance when Dark Knights and Mistresses start flocking to your cause!

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*********************** 4) BUILD A BETTER DUNGEON ***********************
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Now Keeper, we have quickly covered the basics of the game, now it is time to go into depth.  First we shall look at the various rooms you can build and how to get the best from each of them, including in the final section the layouts you must follow to attract the Elite Creatures to your dungeon (for those of you with versions 1.61 and 1.7).  In this and following sections I have listed for your convenience a shortened three-letter code for each room, which is then used in the layout grids.  Onward!

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a) ROOM LIST
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1) DUNGEON HEART

Your Dungeon Heart is the lynchpin of every nefarious kingdom you construct.
It's health is depicted by the small heart icon at the top of the screen, if it should come under attack its health will drop until it is destroyed, which means you have failed the level.  So you must keep it well protected, even your
Imps will battle to protect your Dungeon Heart sacrificing themselves to keep it safe, ah such loyalty Keeper, it makes your rotten heart glow...

Your Dungeon Heart also acts a treasury and will store up to 16,000 Gold
Pieces. It also gives your surrounding creatures a boost in confidence, the threat factor of attacking enemies will be reduced once they enter your Dungeon
Hearts sphere of influence that is marked on the map by a circle radiating outwards.

If you need a quick Mana boost you can also pick up and drop Imps back inside and you'll get half their original Mana cost back.  As soon as you can do so, fortify your Heart with heavy doors and traps, it is recommended you DON'T excavate out the walls around it, but leave access via doorways only so you can defend it more effectively.

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2) LAIR (Code: LAI)
Cost: 300 per tile
Attracts: Firefly
Goblin (minimum 5 tiles)
Bile Demon (minimum 9 tiles)
Minimum recommended size: 1x1 Tile

Every creature that wanders into your Dungeon and into your service needs a place to sleep, a place where they can call home... ahhh. Creatures only require one tile to make a lair upon, although to make keeping track of your creatures easier it is better to build larger lairs and group them together.
Because Lairs can be any size it is better to place them in strips next to other rooms rather than excavate specific squares. For example when you build a library a strip down one side of three - four lairs can provide a nice resting place for your Warlocks close to their preferred workplace.

Or you can build small Lair and hatchery rooms just "off" a larger room if you wish to maximise wall space; e.g.

LIB LIB LIB LIB     LAI LAI LAI LAI
LIB LIB LIB LIB     HTY HTY HTY LAI
LIB LIB LIB LIB DOR HTY HTY HTY LAI
LIB LIB LIB LIB     HTY HTY HTY LAI


Keeping Lairs close to Hatcheries is generally recommended, as creatures often want to sleep after they have eaten. Creatures will tend to head for the Lair closest to the Portal the arrive in, so if you wish to have certain creatures bed down in certain places, grab them and drop them onto the Lair tile and they will happily make a new home.

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3) HATCHERY (Code: HTY)
Cost: 300 per tile
Attracts: Bile Demon (minimum 3x3 tiles)
Min recommended size: 3x3 tiles

Hatcheries can be as small as one tile and will still generate chickens for your hungry minions to eat, but it is recommended you make them at least 3x3 tiles.  This will make a coop appear in the middle and chickens will be replenished much faster.  You should make hatcheries small, but plentiful if